GPHG: The Oscars of Watchmaking and Why It Matters
The Grand Prix de l’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) is a unique celebration of the finest in watchmaking, bringing together the best of Swiss craftsmanship and global innovation. What started as a showcase for Swiss giants has evolved into a platform for both iconic brands and daring independent creators, making it the ultimate stage for horological excellence.
The GPHG isn’t just about competition—it’s where legends like Jean-Claude Biver and Philippe Dufour meet the next generation of watchmakers, where timepieces like the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore and MB&F’s Legacy Machine push the boundaries of creativity. More than an event, it’s a journey through the artistry and passion that define watchmaking today, blending tradition with cutting-edge design in a way that only the GPHG can. Ready to dive in? Let’s uncover what makes this event tick.
Where Icons and Innovators Compete for Glory
This year’s GPHG promises to be a thrilling showcase of watchmaking’s finest. The lineup is stacked with both industry legends and indie creators, each bringing their most groundbreaking pieces to the table. Whether it’s avant-garde designs from MB&F or technical mastery from brands like Vacheron Constantin, the competition will highlight watches that are pushing the limits of craftsmanship, materials, and innovation. Expect to see ultra-thin movements, cutting-edge complications, and bold new designs that are sure to catch the eye of even the most seasoned collectors.
The jury, led by the charismatic Nick Foulkes, is an eclectic mix of 30 experts from all corners of the watch world. These are people who live and breathe horology—brand leaders, artisans, collectors—each bringing a unique perspective to the judging process. They’ll be reviewing 90 watches across 15 categories, with the winners setting the tone for the future of luxury timepieces. What makes it exciting? The diversity. The jury isn’t just about technical excellence; they’re looking for creativity, craftsmanship, and the “wow” factor that makes a watch stand out in a sea of exceptional timepieces.
And for those closely following the market, a win at the GPHG can be a game-changer—boosting a brand’s reputation and setting trends for the coming year. Whether it’s a major brand or a daring independent, everyone’s got their eye on that coveted “Aiguille d’Or.” This year’s competition is set to be one for the books, a dynamic mix of tradition and innovation, with Geneva once again becoming the center of the watch world where we could take you for an unforgetable adventure.
Exclusive Access to Rare Pieces: A Watch Enthusiast’s Dream
The GPHG offers something you won’t find anywhere else: a chance to get up close and personal with unique watches that few have seen. This isn’t just about looking—it’s about experiencing. Past editions have showcased limited editions like Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Concept and the MB&F HM9 Flow, a design inspired by 1940s aeronautics. Rare pieces like F.P. Journe’s Chronomètre Bleu Byblos have captivated attendees with their exclusivity and intricate craftsmanship.
Imagine walking through private exhibitions, each display more breathtaking than the last, with the chance to admire and, if you’re lucky, even acquire these rare finds. It’s this level of access that sets the GPHG apart, making it an unmissable event for anyone who lives and breathes luxury watches.
The GPHG is more than a competition—it’s a celebration of artistry, precision, and passion. For anyone in the world of horology, it’s a calendar highlight where history, innovation, and exclusive access converge in the heart of Geneva.
Horology’s Visionaries: The Independent Watchmakers Redefining Craftsmanship
This year’s GPHG puts the spotlight on independent watchmakers, who are shaking up the industry with bold ideas and unparalleled craftsmanship. Free from the constraints of mass production, these artisans push the limits of creativity, offering timepieces that fuse technical innovation with personal, artistic flair.
Take Rexhep Rexhepi, for instance, whose collaboration with Louis Vuitton on the LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie highlights his mastery of intricate hand-finishing and precision. Meanwhile, Kari Voutilainen’s Tourbillon 20th Anniversary shows off his signature blend of traditional craftsmanship with modern design, focusing on movement precision and refined aesthetics.
Then there’s De Bethune, always known for its futuristic approach. Their Kind of Grande Complication takes mechanical innovation to the next level with a design that feels as much like a piece of art as a technical marvel. MB&F keeps things just as exciting, with the HM11 Architect, a striking, spaceship-like creation that challenges the conventions of watch design.
For collectors, these independents offer something truly unique—watches that are not only technically impressive but also a direct reflection of their creators’ artistry and vision. This year’s GPHG proves that these watchmakers aren’t just competing with the industry’s big names; they’re often stealing the show.
MB&F HM11 Architect – In the “Mechanical Exception” category, MB&F continues to wow with its out-of-this-world designs. The HM11 Architect looks more like a futuristic sculpture than a watch, featuring a spaceship-like structure and innovative movement design. This is a conversation starter, ideal for collectors who crave uniqueness and avant-garde horology
The Louis Vuitton LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie, created with independent watchmaker Rexhep Rexhepi, blends a chronograph with a minute repeater—two of watchmaking’s most complex complications. This collaboration elevates Louis Vuitton’s technical prowess, offering collectors a rare combination of craftsmanship and innovation
The De Bethune Kind of Grande Complication not only showcases a tourbillon and perpetual calendar but also features their patented balance wheel technology, optimizing stability and accuracy. Its futuristic design contrasts beautifully with the intricate mechanics, making it a true testament to De Bethune’s forward-thinking approach in haute horlogerie.
The Kari Voutilainen Tourbillon 20th Anniversary is a perfect blend of traditional craftsmanship and modern precision. Featuring a beautifully executed tourbillon and Voutilainen’s signature hand-finishing, this timepiece reflects his commitment to both artistry and technical excellence. It’s a refined celebration of two decades of Voutilainen’s impact on haute horlogerie.
The Bernhard Lederer 3 Times Certified Observatory Chronometer stands out for its focus on precision and technical mastery. Featuring an innovative movement that is certified by three separate observatories, it emphasizes accuracy in timekeeping at the highest level. The watch’s understated design highlights Lederer’s dedication to functionality and chronometric excellence, making it a must-see for collectors who value performance over embellishment.
The Future of Horology: Trends Driving Innovation in High-End Watchmaking
The trends driving luxury watchmaking in 2024 are reflected across the timepieces competing at this year’s GPHG, where technical advancements and aesthetic innovation go hand in hand.
Sustainability has moved from a niche concern to a central pillar of modern horology. Brands like Chopard, renowned for their use of ethically sourced materials such as Fairmined gold, are leading the charge. Their L.U.C 1860 Flying Tourbillon, nominated in the Tourbillon category, is not only a technical masterpiece but also an example of how sustainability can be integrated into the very fabric of luxury watchmaking.
Another area of fierce competition is ultra-thin movements, where mechanical engineering is pushed to new extremes. Bvlgari’s Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC, part of the Mechanical Exception category, is a technical marvel, boasting a movement that’s as thin as a few millimeters, without sacrificing power reserve or functionality. This piece underscores the increasing demand for sleek, minimalist designs that still deliver top-tier complications.
In terms of material innovation, the industry is exploring new frontiers with composites like carbon fiber and ceramics, known for their lightweight durability and striking aesthetic. Hublot’s MP-15 Takashi Murakami Tourbillon incorporates these materials into a visually stunning, highly durable design. Sapphire crystal cases, once reserved for concept models, are now entering the mainstream, offering unparalleled scratch resistance and a futuristic feel.
Mastering traditional complications remains a cornerstone of haute horlogerie, but brands like Parmigiani Fleurier are enhancing these age-old features with modern precision. The Tonda PF Hijri Perpetual Calendar, nominated in the Calendar and Astronomy category, showcases a beautifully executed perpetual calendar, marking a shift towards more culturally significant complications.
Collaborations between fashion houses and independent watchmakers are infusing fresh creativity into the industry. The Louis Vuitton LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie, designed with Rexhep Rexhepi, exemplifies this blend of high fashion and artisanal craftsmanship. As one of the most complex pieces in the Chronograph category, it brings together precision horology with Louis Vuitton’s flair for design.
Finally, the trend towards personalization and limited editions continues to gain momentum. Collectors are increasingly seeking out one-of-a-kind timepieces, and MB&F’s HM11 Architect, with its futuristic, sculptural design, speaks directly to this desire. It’s a piece that doesn’t just tell the time—it tells a story, aligning with the growing demand for watches that reflect the individuality of their owners.
