A New Approach to Champagne
Champagne is undergoing a thrilling evolution, as winemakers begin to place a renewed emphasis on single-varietal and terroir-driven expressions. Traditionally, Champagne has been associated with blending—a process that balances grapes from different vineyards and years to create a consistent house style. However, a revolution is underway, led by a growing number of innovative producers who are challenging the status quo. They aim to showcase the purity of individual grape varieties and the unique characteristics of specific vineyards. This change not only reflects a deeper connection to the land but also a response to an increasingly discerning consumer base that craves purity, authenticity, and singularity in every sip..
The Context: : A New Approach to Champagne
Historically, many growers sold their grapes to the major Champagne houses, which blended them into cuvées that highlighted house style rather than the specifics of any single vineyard. But in recent decades, some producers have bucked this trend, choosing to vinify their own wines and express the subtleties of their terroirs.
This shift towards grower Champagnes—small-batch wines made by grape growers themselves—has taken Champagne into a new era. These producers, often farming biodynamically or organically, are focused on crafting wines that reflect the land, the weather of the vintage, and the nuances of individual parcels of vines. As Essi Avellan MW puts it, “grower Champagnes are the true artisans, treating their vines like sacred ground.”
Names like Jacques Selosse and Anselme Selosse have become synonymous with this movement. Selosse’s philosophy is rooted in minimal intervention and a deep respect for terroir, producing wines that are unlike the blended cuvées of traditional houses. Instead, they offer an almost Burgundian focus on single-vineyard Champagnes, with bottlings that speak directly to the land from which they come.
The Revolution of Single-Varietal Champagnes: Exploring Purity and Expression
One of the most exciting trends in the Champagne world today is the rise of single-varietal bottlings. . Increasing numbers of producers, from historical houses to cutting-edge vintners, are showcasing the distinct personality of each grape variety. Moving beyond traditional blends, this approach accentuates the unique beauty and complexity of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier and is gaining popularity among connoisseurs who appreciate the pure expression of a single grape variety.
Pinot Noir: The Powerhouse of Blanc de Noirs
Pinot Noir brings body, structure, and complexity to Champagne, often resulting in more robust and expressive wines. Blanc de Noirs—produced solely from Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier—offers a rich, structured experience. These Champagnes often feature deep fruit profiles, body, and complexity, showcasing the inherent robustness of these varietals.
Blanc de Noirs made solely from Pinot Noir are known for flavors that range from red berries and spices to earthy undertones. Some even show a touch of savoriness, adding to their complexity.
- Anecdote & Case Study: Egly-Ouriet, a celebrated grower-producer, crafts Blanc de Noirs using 100% Pinot Noir from Grand Cru vineyards in Ambonnay. With meticulous vinification and extended aging, they create a Blanc de Noirs that many consider a benchmark. Their wines showcase depth, richness, and a long aging potential, often appealing to red wine lovers.
- Noteworthy Producers: Other noteworthy houses include Philipponnat, which uses Pinot Noir from its historical Clos des Goisses vineyard to make single-plot Blanc de Noirs with incredible aging potential and nuanced minerality. Additionally, Chartogne-Taillet produces Pinot Noir-dominant Champagnes that reflect the soil of the village of Merfy.
Chardonnay: The Elegance of Blanc de Blancs
Chardonnay-based Blanc de Blancs offer a fresher, more mineral-driven style of Champagne. These wines are often lean, with flavors that lean toward citrus, green apple, and floral notes. When aged, Chardonnay can develop complex layers of brioche, almond, and even chalky minerality that reflect Champagne’s famous soils.
- Case Study: One of the finest examples of single-vineyard Blanc de Blancs is Krug’s Clos du Mesnil. Made exclusively from Chardonnay grown in the walled Clos du Mesnil vineyard in Mesnil-sur-Oger, this wine is considered an icon. Each bottle is a celebration of Chardonnay’s potential for elegance and longevity, often aged over a decade before release.
It was in the early 20th century when Champagne Salon’s founder, Eugène-Aimé Salon, first had the radical idea to produce a Blanc de Blancs from a single vineyard, single vintage, and single varietal. The Champagne world was skeptical, but the result—a wine of unmatched purity and elegance—paved the way for today’s single-varietal revolution . Salon’s Champagnes are known for their longevity, often needing years to reach their peak.
- Noteworthy Producers: Pierre Peters , Veuve Fourny, Agrapart & Fils , Pierre Gimonnet and Jacques Lassaigne are smaller grower-producers who have garnered praise for crafting expressive, terroir-driven Blanc de Blancs.
Pinot Meunier: The Rising Star of Single-Varietal Champagne
Long regarded as a blending grape that adds fruitiness and softness, Pinot Meunier has gained new respect as a single-varietal Champagne, offering distinctive charm and approachability. Meunier-based Champagnes are often fruit-forward with softer acidity, showcasing aromas of ripe orchard fruits like apple and pear, along with floral hints.
- Anecdote & Case Study: Christophe Mignon is one of the key figures in promoting 100% Pinot Meunier Champagnes, emphasizing biodynamic principles to capture the essence of his vineyards in Festigny. His wines are celebrated for their purity, vibrancy, and aromatic complexity, which challenge old perceptions of Meunier as simply a secondary grape.
- Noteworthy Producers: Egly-Ouriet also produces a 100% Meunier Champagne that has captivated connoisseurs with its unique expression. Jerome Prévost, known for his La Closerie “Fac-simile” cuvée, has helped redefine Meunier’s image, creating structured, age-worthy Champagnes that prove the grape’s depth.
Terroir-Driven Champagnes: Elevating the Land
Terroir-driven Champagnes offer a counterpoint to the tradition of blending. Producers are choosing to highlight the unique characteristics of their vineyards, creating wines that vary year to year but provide a deeper sense of place. This approach mirrors the focus on terroir seen in Burgundy, where even the smallest plot differences are celebrated.
The Historic Terroirs of Champagne: Soil, Climate, and Identity
In Champagne, terroir encompasses more than just the soil—it is a combination of the region’s climate, geography, and viticultural traditions. The diversity of Champagne’s sub-regions is reflected in the style and flavor of the wines they produce, each area contributing to the complexity of the world’s most iconic sparkling wine.
1. Côte des Blancs: The Kingdom of Chardonnay
Renowned for its pure chalk subsoil, the Côte des Blancs produces Chardonnay with extraordinary elegance and minerality. This subregion, running south of Épernay, includes the villages of Avize, Cramant, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, and Oger, each with distinct expressions. For instance, Avize’s wines often show a tight, chalky structure with citrus zest, while Le Mesnil-sur-Oger brings finesse and longevity, famously epitomized by Salon and Krug’s Clos du Mesnil. This terroir is the backbone of many Blanc de Blancs, cherished for their clarity and aging potential, thanks to the light, mineral-rich soil that imparts acidity and longevity to the wines2. Montagne de Reims: The Power of Pinot Noir
2. Montagne de Reims: The Power of Pinot Noir
Known for its mix of chalk, clay, and sand soils, the Montagne de Reims produces some of the most structured, fruit-forward Pinot Noir in Champagne. This subregion’s cooler temperatures and varying exposures allow Pinot Noir to develop both depth and complexity. The northern slopes yield structured, intense wines, while southern-facing vineyards produce fuller, fruitier Champagnes. Iconic houses like Egly-Ouriet and Bollinger showcase the Montagne’s terroir, while Mailly Grand Cru is an emblematic example, focusing solely on Grand Cru Pinot Noir from the area
3. Vallée de la Marne: The River’s Influence and Pinot Meunier’s Domain
The Vallée de la Marne runs along the Marne River, creating a milder microclimate ideal for Pinot Meunier. This terroir is a mix of clay, sand, and marl soils that suit Pinot Meunier’s early ripening needs and resistance to frost. Wines from this region often have a round, fruity profile with floral aromas, contrasting with the Côte des Blancs’ chalky freshness. Prominent producers such as Champagne Moussé Fils and Georges Laval champion Pinot Meunier here, showcasing its fruit-driven charm and versatility
4. Côte des Bar: Champagne’s Rising Star
Located in the Aube, Côte des Bar stands out for its Kimmeridgian marl, similar to that of Chablis, and a warmer climate that ripens Pinot Noir more fully. This terroir delivers expressive, fruit-forward wines with mineral notes, thanks to its limestone-rich soils. Growers like Cédric Bouchard are leading the charge, producing single-vineyard Champagnes that reflect the unique character of this southern region. These Champagnes are bold and vibrant, often emphasizing the vintage’s distinctiveness due to the warmer climate and marl soils
Official Recognition of Champagne Single-Vineyards: The Next Step
While Champagne has Grand Cru and Premier Cru village designations, there has been a growing call to officially recognize individual vineyard plots, similar to Burgundy’s climats. Currently, 17 villages hold Grand Cru status, and 42 are designated as Premier Cru, but the recognition of single vineyard sites is still relatively limited.
- The Role of Grand and Premier Crus: Unlike Burgundy, where individual vineyards are classified, Champagne’s Grand Cru and Premier Cru designations apply to entire villages. However, producers like Jacques Selosse and Anselme Selosse have argued for more granular recognition, given the stark differences even within small vineyard plots.
As Champagne’s growers increasingly focus on single-vineyard expressions, it’s likely that the region will move toward even finer classifications in the future. The unique character of plots like Krug’s Clos du Mesnil demonstrates that some terroirs deserve special recognition due to their ability to produce exceptional wines year after year.
The Influence of Grower-Producers: Crafting Terroir-Driven Masterpieces
In recent years, grower-producers have risen to prominence, embodying the movement toward Champagne that reflects the authenticity of place and vine. These are the vineyards that go beyond the historical dominance of larger Champagne houses. Grower-producers, often cultivating family plots passed down through generations, are deeply connected to their terroir. Many have chosen to focus on single-vineyard, low-intervention practices that showcase the land’s pure expression rather than blending to achieve uniformity.
Pioneers in Terroir Expression: A New Wave of Visionaries
Grower-producers are often referred to as “vignerons indépendants” and are celebrated for their dedication to organic, biodynamic, and sustainable practices. Here are some notable producers making an impact on the Champagne landscape:
Benoît Marguet
One of the most fervent proponents of biodynamic farming, Marguet believes in a hands-off approach to winemaking. His wines are a direct expression of the land, made without added sulfur and crafted with biodynamic principles. Known for his “Shaman” series, Marguet’s wines reveal the complexity and energy of the Ambonnay terroir in the Montagne de Reims.
Georges Laval
One of the earliest proponents of organic viticulture in Champagne, Georges Laval has been certified organic since 1971, a rare feat in a region where such practices were previously scarce. His vineyards in Cumières (in the Vallée de la Marne) are renowned for low yields and exceptional quality, producing wines with depth, minerality, and a firm sense of place.
Eric Rodez
Among the vanguard of grower-producers championing terroir, Eric Rodez of Ambonnay stands out for his commitment to organic and biodynamic practices and his dedication to showcasing the unique identity of his Grand Cru village, allowing the vineyard’s pure expression to shine. With a focus on Pinot Noir and the rich, structured soils of the Montagne de Reims, Rodez crafts Champagnes that are as complex as they are true to their origins. Known for his philosophy of “listening to the vineyard,” Rodez’s wines reflect Ambonnay’s unique depth, with each bottle showcasing the land’s vitality and character.
Champagne Mailly Grand Cru
Located in the Montagne de Reims, Champagne Mailly Grand Cru is a cooperative of visionary growers focused on highlighting Grand Cru terroirs. Mailly’s wines are crafted from exclusively Grand Cru plots, showcasing the rich, full-bodied Pinot Noir characteristic of the region, with notable floral and spice notes that make their expressions both complex and distinctive.
Champagne Pouillon et Fils
Fabrice Pouillon champions a meticulous, hands-on approach, carefully tending his vines in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ. His philosophy centers around respecting nature and working with biodynamic preparations to enhance the soil’s vitality. Pouillon’s Champagnes are mineral-driven, with fresh, pure fruit expressions that bring out the subtle nuances of each plot.
Champagne Jacquesson
Jacquesson is known for its trailblazing spirit and commitment to terroir. Based in Dizy, they have been refining their approach for over two centuries, focusing on lower yields and sustainable practices. The winery’s 700 series showcases single-plot expressions that allow wine lovers to explore the distinct terroirs of the Vallée de la Marne, including the lieux-dits (individual plots) of Avize, Chouilly, and Ay.
A Deep Connection to the Land
These grower-producers are not only transforming the perception of Champagne but also how it is crafted. Many have embraced biodynamic and organic practices, prioritizing soil health and biodiversity. These practices bring out the natural character of each terroir, revealing subtleties in flavor and aroma that are often overshadowed in larger-scale production. By working closely with their plots, these growers can respect the natural cycles of the vine, ensuring a Champagne that is as close to the earth as possible. Want to learn more about the innovations and sustainability of the Champagne? Read here.
Essi Avellan MW describes this movement as a “return to Champagne’s roots,” where each bottle encapsulates the spirit of a single vineyard, vintage, and grower. By focusing on terroir, these growers bring out the complexity, minerality, and distinctive qualities that are otherwise lost in blended production.
An Anecdote: Anselme Selosse : From Obscurity to Reverence
“When I started making single-vineyard Champagne, people thought I was crazy,” recalls Anselme Selosse. His devotion to terroir and a low-intervention approach initially set him apart in Champagne, a region once focused on large-scale blending for consistency. Today, however, Selosse is a cult figure among sommeliers and collectors. His wines from vineyards like Avize and Le Mesnil-sur-Oger showcase Champagne’s unique terroirs, revealing a depth and dimension that transforms each sip into a journey through the land.
The New Era of Single-Varietal and Terroir-Driven Champagne
Champagne is undergoing a profound evolution as pioneering producers embrace the purity of single grape varieties and the unique character of specific vineyards. Departing from the classic emphasis on blending, these vignerons prioritize authenticity and a genuine connection to the land, celebrating what each terroir can uniquely contribute. According to Essi Avellan MW, this shift represents “a return to Champagne’s roots,” where each bottle captures the singular spirit of its vineyard, variety, or grower.
Richard Juhlin further highlights this movement as “Champagne’s next great chapter,” one where vineyard identity, rather than just house style, takes center stage. What began as a niche pursuit has become a transformative force, reshaping our understanding of Champagne and offering a more intimate, transparent view of this historic region. This approach invites us to experience Champagne not merely as a celebratory drink, but as a profound expression of place, season, and the hands that craft it.
By honoring terroir, these innovators are not just crafting wines—they are telling stories, capturing time and place within every bottle.
Key Points:
- Single-Varietal Revolution: The rise of single-varietal Champagnes, like Blanc de Blancs, Blanc de Noirs, and single-varietal Meunier wines, showcases the unique attributes of each grape. These single-grape expressions are celebrated for their purity, ranging from the structure and depth of Pinot Noir to the elegance and minerality of Chardonnay.
- Pioneering Grower-Producers: Visionary winemakers like Benoît Marguet, Georges Laval, and Anselme Selosse are redefining Champagne by embracing organic and biodynamic practices. They’re producing terroir-driven Champagnes that go beyond the typical blend, offering a distinct sense of place.
Future Potential for Terroir Recognition: With the continued success of single-vineyard wines, many producers and enthusiasts anticipate a more detailed classification system, potentially recognizing individual vineyards and unique plots, much like Burgundy’s climats.